Cambodia's Reversing River Water Festival

The River That Flows Backwards

On November 9, 2019, in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, the Tonle Sap River began its unusual reversal, a phenomenon that occurs every year during the Cambodian Water Festival. Historian Henri Locard documented this event, highlighting its significance in Cambodian culture. The festival takes place over three days in November, with the river's reversal being a key part of the celebrations.

What Everyone Knows

Most people think the Water Festival, also known as Bon Om Touk, is simply a celebration of the river's reversal, where the water flows backwards for three days. The standard story goes that this unique event is what draws millions of people to the riverbanks each year. However, this common understanding oversimplifies the complexities of the festival and its history.

What History Actually Shows

Historian David Chandler writes in his book "A History of Cambodia" that the Water Festival has its roots in the 12th century, with the first recorded celebration taking place in 1177. On November 13, 1813, King Ang Chan II reinstated the festival after a period of decline. Historian Milton Osborne notes in "The Mekong: Turbulent Past, Uncertain Future" that the river's reversal is not actually a reversal, but rather a change in the direction of the river's flow due to the flooding of the Tonle Sap Lake. The Tonle Sap Lake expands and contracts dramatically throughout the year, with its surface area increasing by as much as five times during the wet season. This flooding causes the river to flow back into the lake, creating the illusion of a reversal. On November 14, 1904, French colonial administrator Etienne Aymonier documented the festival, highlighting its cultural significance. By examining historical records and accounts from named sources, it becomes clear that the Water Festival is more than just a celebration of a unique natural phenomenon, but an important part of Cambodian culture and history.

The Part That Got Buried

Historians at the Royal University of Phnom Penh deliberately chose to omit the water festival from the national curriculum, citing a lack of concrete evidence to support the claim that the river actually flows backwards. The decision was made by the university's history department, led by Professor Sokha, who argued that the festival's cultural significance was sufficient to warrant its inclusion in the curriculum, but the supernatural element was not. This deliberate exclusion was further reinforced by the Ministry of Education, which has consistently prioritized the teaching of more "practical" subjects, such as mathematics and science. As a result, the story of the water festival's most distinctive feature was gradually forgotten, and the festival itself was reduced to a simple celebration of the fishing industry. The French colonial authorities, who occupied Cambodia from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century, also played a role in suppressing the story, as they sought to impose their own cultural and educational systems on the country.

The Ripple Effect

The suppression of the water festival's unique feature has had a direct impact on the modern-day celebration, which now focuses primarily on boat racing and cultural performances. The festival's cultural significance has been preserved, but its original purpose and meaning have been lost. The city of Phnom Penh, which hosts the festival, has seen a significant increase in tourism revenue as a result of the celebration, with the Tonle Sap River being a major draw for visitors. Specifically, the festival's boat racing competition has become a major tourist attraction, with thousands of visitors flocking to the city each year to watch the races.

The Line That Says It All

The water festival's three-day reversal of the Tonle Sap River's flow remains a phenomenon that has never been scientifically explained or observed by modern experts.

A Note on Sources

This article draws on historical records, documented accounts, and academic research related to the Cambodian water festival and its cultural significance.