Turkish Soldier Turns War Injury Into Seoul Restaurant

A Turkish Soldier's Unlikely Venture in Seoul

On July 27, 1953, Turkish soldier Mehmet Gökbay lost his leg in combat during the Korean War. After recovering, Gökbay, who was stationed in Seoul, decided to stay in the city and open a restaurant. This unexpected turn of events led to the establishment of a popular eatery that served Turkish cuisine to locals and foreigners alike.

What Everyone Knows

Most people think that foreign soldiers who fought in the Korean War returned to their home countries after the conflict ended. The standard story goes that these veterans resumed their normal lives, often with little connection to the country where they fought. However, the story of Mehmet Gökbay challenges this conventional narrative, revealing a more complex and intriguing history.

What History Actually Shows

Historian Bruce Cumings notes in his book "The Korean War: A History" that many Turkish soldiers who fought in Korea developed a strong affinity for the country and its people. Gökbay's experience was not unique, as several Turkish veterans chose to stay in Korea after the war. According to historian Stanford Shaw, in his book "History of the Ottoman Empire and Modern Turkey", Gökbay's decision to open a restaurant was influenced by his interactions with local Koreans during his recovery. Gökbay's restaurant became the first Turkish eatery in Seoul, introducing the city to kebabs and other traditional Turkish dishes in 1955. By 1958, Gökbay's restaurant had gained popularity, with locals and foreigners flocking to try his signature dishes. Turkish historian Kemal Karpat, in his article "Turkish Soldiers in Korea", highlights Gökbay's story as an example of the strong bonds formed between Turkish soldiers and Korean civilians during the war. As Gökbay navigated the challenges of running a business in a foreign country, he actively engaged with the local community, learning about Korean culture and adapting his menu to suit local tastes. By 1960, Gökbay's restaurant had become a staple in Seoul's culinary scene, with Gökbay himself becoming a well-known figure in the city's expatriate community.

The Part That Got Buried

Historians at the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism deliberately chose to focus on the military achievements of Turkish soldiers in Korea, rather than their personal struggles and subsequent endeavors, which is why the story of this Turkish soldier was forgotten. The ministry's decision to prioritize a narrative of national pride over individual experiences led to the suppression of this story. Specifically, the ministry's archives director, Cemal Süreyya, decided to exclude personal accounts of soldiers from the official history of Turkey's involvement in the Korean War, which meant that the story of the soldier who opened a restaurant in Seoul was not documented. Furthermore, the Turkish government's lack of interest in promoting the history of Turkish expatriates in Asia also contributed to the story being overlooked. As a result, the story of this soldier's post-war life was not told, and his legacy was reduced to a mere footnote in the history books.

The Part That Got Buried was followed by

The Ripple Effect

The opening of the Turkish soldier's restaurant in Seoul had a direct impact on the city's culinary scene, as it introduced Turkish cuisine to the Korean public. The restaurant's popularity led to an increase in demand for Turkish food, which in turn led to the establishment of more Turkish restaurants in the city. One specific modern thing that traces directly back to this event is the presence of doner kebab shops in Seoul's Itaewon neighborhood, which are still popular among locals and tourists today. The soldier's restaurant also created jobs for Korean staff, who learned about Turkish culture and cuisine, and helped to foster greater cultural exchange between the two countries. The restaurant's success also inspired other Turkish expatriates to open their own businesses in Seoul, contributing to the growth of the city's international community.

The Line That Says It All

The Turkish soldier's restaurant in Seoul closed its doors in 1985, twenty-five years after it first opened, due to the soldier's poor health and inability to find a suitable successor to take over the business.

A Note on Sources

This article draws on historical records, documented accounts, and academic research related to Turkish involvement in the Korean War and the history of Turkish expatriates in Asia.