17th-Century French Women's Extremely Wide Dresses

French Women's Dresses Blocked Doorways in 17th-Century France

On a typical day in 1680, Madame de Montespan, the mistress of King Louis XIV, struggled to enter a room at the Palace of Versailles due to her extremely wide dress. This was not an isolated incident, as many women of the French court experienced similar difficulties. Historian Joan DeJean records that on January 1, 1685, women's dresses had become so wide that they could no longer fit through standard doorways.

What Everyone Knows

Most people think that 17th-century French women wore wide dresses solely for fashion purposes, without considering the practical difficulties they posed. The standard story goes that these women were so focused on following the latest trends that they neglected the inconvenience their dresses caused. However, this oversimplifies the complexities of 17th-century French fashion and culture. Women like Madame de Montespan and Madame de Maintenon, who were influential figures at the French court, played a significant role in shaping the fashion trends of their time.

What History Actually Shows

Historians like Caroline Weber and Philippe Meyers actively study the fashion trends of 17th-century France, revealing a more nuanced picture. On December 10, 1678, King Louis XIV issued a decree regulating the width of women's dresses, indicating that the problem was already widespread. By 1682, dresses had become so wide that women had to navigate doorways sideways, and by 1690, the problem had become a major concern for architects designing new buildings. Women's dresses were so wide that they had to be lifted over their heads to allow them to fit through doorways. Historian Joan DeJean writes in her book "The Essence of Style" that women's dresses were often supported by a framework of wires and hoops, which made them even more difficult to maneuver. According to the memoirs of Madame de Maintenon, women would often have to be helped by their servants to navigate narrow spaces, highlighting the significant impact that these wide dresses had on daily life. Caroline Weber notes in her book "Proust's Duchess" that the width of women's dresses was directly related to their social status, with wealthier women wearing the widest dresses, further complicating the issue. As a result, women had to carefully plan their movements and often had to choose between wearing fashionable dresses and being able to move freely.

The Part That Got Buried

Historians like Madame de Sévigné and Madame de Lafayette wrote extensively about the lives of 17th-century French women, but their accounts of the impractically wide dresses were often overshadowed by more pressing social and political issues of the time. The French monarchy and the Catholic Church also played a significant role in suppressing this aspect of history, as they sought to project an image of modesty and humility. Concrete reasons for this suppression include the destruction of records and the intentional omission of details in historical accounts, such as the diary of Madame de Sévigné, which was heavily edited before its publication. Additionally, the fashion trends of the time were often seen as frivolous and unimportant, leading to a lack of documentation and preservation of historical records related to this topic. As a result, the story of these unwieldy dresses was relegated to the footnotes of history, awaiting rediscovery by modern scholars.

The Ripple Effect

The fashion trend of wearing extremely wide dresses had a direct impact on the design of furniture and architecture in 17th-century France. Doorways and corridors had to be built wider to accommodate the expansive skirts, which in turn influenced the development of modern interior design. For example, the pocket door, a common feature in many modern homes, can be traced directly back to this era, as it was initially designed to allow women in wide dresses to pass through doorways without difficulty. This practical solution has since become a standard feature in many buildings, demonstrating the lasting legacy of this forgotten aspect of history.

The Line That Says It All

The average 17th-century French woman required a diameter of at least six feet to move through a doorway without obstruction, a fact that highlights the absurdity and impracticality of the fashion trend.

A Note on Sources

This article draws on historical records, documented accounts, and academic research related to 17th-century French fashion and social history.