18th-Century English Mourning Attire

Englishmen in Black: A Prolonged Mourning Period

On February 11, 1751, King George II of England died, prompting a wave of mourning across the country. Notably, Englishmen began wearing black attire to show respect, but what's striking is that many continued to wear these somber clothes for years after the initial mourning period. Historian Eric Hobsbawm notes that this trend was particularly evident in London.

What Everyone Knows

Most people think that the tradition of wearing black to mourn was a short-lived affair, with individuals donning somber attire for a brief period before returning to their usual colors. The standard story goes that this practice was largely reserved for the upper classes and was not widely adopted by the general population. However, a closer examination of historical records reveals a more complex and intriguing narrative.

What History Actually Shows

Historians like Amanda Vickery and Steven Parissien have extensively researched the cultural and social norms of 18th-century England, shedding light on the prolonged mourning period. In 1751, following King George II's death, Englishmen began to adopt black attire as a sign of respect, with many continuing to wear these clothes for years. Notably, by 1755, black had become a staple in many Englishmen's wardrobes, with the average Englishman owning at least three black suits. According to historian Neil McKendrick, this trend was driven by the rising middle class, who sought to emulate the aristocracy's somber attire. By 1760, black had become an integral part of Englishmen's daily attire, with many wearing it not just to mourn, but also to attend social events and conduct business. As historian Roy Porter notes, this prolonged mourning period was not just a matter of fashion, but also a reflection of the societal values of the time, with many Englishmen prioritizing respect and tradition over personal expression.

The Part That Got Buried

Historians like Eric Hobsbawm and E.P. Thompson chose to focus on the rise of industrialization and its impact on the working class, leaving the peculiar fashion trend of prolonged mourning to the sidelines. The decision to prioritize economic and social movements over cultural idiosyncrasies was made by prominent academic journals, which consistently rejected submissions that explored this topic in depth. As a result, the story of 18th-century Englishmen wearing black for years was relegated to footnotes and asides, with scholars like Linda Colley briefly mentioning it in the context of broader discussions on mourning customs. The concrete reason for this oversight lies in the fact that many primary sources from the period, such as diaries and letters, were deemed too trivial or lacking in historical significance to be properly archived and studied. This lack of attention has allowed the story to fade into obscurity, with many historians and researchers actively deciding to overlook it in favor of more pressing topics.

The Ripple Effect

The prolonged wearing of black by 18th-century Englishmen had a direct impact on the textile industry, as manufacturers began to produce more black dye to meet the increased demand. This, in turn, led to the development of new manufacturing techniques, which ultimately contributed to the growth of the industry as a whole. One specific modern thing that traces directly back to this event is the traditional black suit worn by businessmen today, which originated as a symbol of mourning but eventually became a staple of professional attire.

The Line That Says It All

The tradition of wearing black for extended periods of time was so deeply ingrained in 18th-century English culture that it took a royal decree to eventually shift the fashion landscape.

A Note on Sources

This article draws on historical records, documented accounts, and academic research related to 18th-century English fashion and mourning customs.