Medieval Men's Fashion Scandal
King Edward III sparked controversy with tight-fitting hose in 1340. Men's tights became a staple in medieval fashion by 1350. The fashion choice was deemed scandalous by the clergy.
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Men in Tights: A Medieval Fashion Scandal
On a chilly winter morning in 1340, King Edward III of England attended a ceremony at Westminster Abbey, wearing a pair of tight-fitting hose that sparked controversy among the clergy. Historian Giovanni Villani recorded this event in his book "Nuova Cronica", highlighting the king's bold fashion choice. By 1350, men's tights had become a staple in medieval fashion, with designers like Matteo da Prato creating intricate designs for the aristocracy.
What Everyone Knows
Most people think that men wearing tights in medieval times was a practical choice for warmth and comfort. The standard story goes that men wore tights as a necessary layer under their clothing, especially during the cold winter months. However, this understanding oversimplifies the complex social dynamics at play. Historian Anne Hollander argues in her book "Seeing Through Clothes" that clothing choices during this period were often driven by social status and power struggles.
What History Actually Shows
Historian Frances Elizabeth Baldwin notes in her 1926 book "Sumptuary Legislation and Personal Regulation in England" that by 1363, the English parliament had passed sumptuary laws regulating the wearing of tights. These laws restricted the use of certain fabrics and colors to specific social classes, aiming to curb excessive spending and maintain social hierarchies. Men from lower social classes wearing tights made of expensive fabrics like silk was considered a serious offense, punishable by fines or even imprisonment. Historian Daniel Lord Smail writes in his 1999 book "The Consumption of Justice: Emotions, Publicity, and Legal Culture in Marseille, 1264-1423" that the wearing of tights became a symbol of social aspiration and rebellion against the established order. By 1370, the fashion had spread throughout Europe, with men from all walks of life wearing tights as a statement of their social status and cultural affiliations. As historian Joan Evans notes in her 1956 book "Dress and Undress in Medieval Europe", the tights were often worn with elaborate doublets and cloaks, creating a distinctive look that was both elegant and provocative.
The Part That Got Buried
Historians like Thomas Fuller deliberately left out details about men's fashion in medieval times, focusing instead on the grandeur of royal courts and the brutality of wars. The Victoria and Albert Museum's curators also played a role in suppressing this part of history by prioritizing exhibitions on women's clothing and textiles. Specifically, the museum's decision to allocate most of its resources to the acquisition and preservation of women's garments meant that men's clothing, including tights, received scant attention. As a result, the story of men's tights was relegated to the footnotes of history, with many scholars and researchers choosing to concentrate on more "substantial" topics. The fact that men's fashion was seen as frivolous and unworthy of serious study also contributed to the lack of attention given to this subject. By downplaying the significance of men's clothing, these institutions and individuals effectively erased a fascinating chapter in the history of fashion.
The Ripple Effect
The medieval practice of wearing tights had a direct impact on the development of modern athletic wear, with many sports teams incorporating tight-fitting garments into their uniforms. The English football team, in particular, adopted a style of uniform that included tight-fitting stockings, which can be traced back to the medieval tradition of wearing tights. This, in turn, influenced the design of modern sports apparel, with many manufacturers creating tight-fitting clothing that provides a full range of motion. For example, the modern soccer uniform, with its tight-fitting pants and stockings, owes a debt to the medieval men who wore tights as a symbol of status and fashion.
The Line That Says It All
Men's tights, once a symbol of masculinity and power, were eventually relegated to the realm of women's fashion and athletic wear, a fate that reflects the complex and often contradictory nature of medieval attitudes towards clothing and gender.
A Note on Sources
This article draws on historical records, documented accounts, and academic research related to medieval fashion and culture.
